The fashion icon Edward Enninful reflects on Today's Society: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Compared to the Nineties.

A serendipitous meeting on the London Underground in 1988 changed forever the trajectory of a young Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the capital's electric 1990s cultural landscape, moving from model to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the style editor of i-D magazine.

"That era was the peak of the YBA movement – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he remembers. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I knew we’d be great friends. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I miss that rawness."

Although Enninful appears sentimental, he is not the only one. Recently, a longing look back of the 1990s has grown intense. But in the intervening decades, Enninful feels a profound shift. "In my view, we’re less accepting now than we were in the 90s," he says. "This isn't just this country – it’s everywhere."

Shifting Attitudes

This change is difficult to overlook: the rise of far-right politics, the backlash against progressive values, and the reassertion of narrow beauty standards. Replacing the optimism of the Blair era, today a more divisive political figure looms as a possible leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an badge of Cool Britannia, has become contentious again.

In Enninful's view, the solution has always been to champion culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the core philosophy behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, featuring a broad spectrum of influential figures from literature.

"Individuals with a platform should wield it," he asserts, explaining those publishing choices. "Everyone talks about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain were not a open country, if it refused my family a refuge and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I always loved. I hope this period will fade."

The Younger Generation's Awareness

He finds hope in the youth of today: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They talk about implicit prejudice – I didn't even know what that was."

Those early experiences would forge a trailblazing career built on boldness and inclusivity. Enninful made history as the first male, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled Black gay man to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured diverse covers showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, older individuals, and individuals from varied communities. Critically, sales increased.

"Ignoring vast segments of the population, it’s not just that you’re failing to represent – it’s a poor strategy," he emphasises.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has since founded his new venture EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his key endeavour since moving on from his previous role. He expresses a desire to continue being a "innovator".

"I constantly interrogate the status quo. I was brought up in a place where everybody was black – the physicians, the attorneys, the leader. Then we arrived in England, penniless, and I became the 'other'. I was incredibly timid. My teachers said I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the Sus laws … this duality gave me a sense of being between worlds."

In contrast to the popular image of industry figures as brash and highly strung, Enninful is calm and exudes calm. His life has included its share of adversity, including publicly shared struggles with mental health and addiction.

He has also endured significant health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, now leaving him with impaired eyesight. "I experienced such a dark place for two years, away from work, terrified I was going to go blind. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I vowed, if this ever passes, I’m just going to do everything that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This drive to be typecast has inspired him outside the world that made his name. He is now putting together a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a roster of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to explore the decade's artistic collaboration – and give platform to those who weren't given a spotlight at the time.

"The establishment sometimes neglected to promote the truly innovative creators because they weren't of the traditional credentials," he comments.

This project itself operates on a novel approach, eschewing traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "The question is, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is a piece within a greater ecosystem."

An Unstoppable Drive

Currently, Enninful stands as one of the world's most influential industry leaders. His journey, he feels, is a proof to the power of pursuing your passions.

What would the Edward of the 90s make of the Edward of today? He smiles. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be proud. Back then I was sceptical of institutions. I didn't think institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He pauses. "I never take anything for granted. We lost our home, we fled our country. I nearly lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have doubted me my whole career. But I am unstoppable once I’ve made up my mind to do something."